Yes We Cane! (3/6/2009)

Sir Stamford Raffles, legend might say, was born from a winged tiger that curled its paw into a cup of virgin sand and nestled the lump of sand to life. Raffles emerged, fully grown, clothed in military regalia and striking the “I bad” pose that his waterfront statue so dictates, to found a nation. That nation, the ancients said, would be called Singapore, the Lion City. And Raffles would be the high lord of all men …

I exaggerate. Still, Raffles’ baby – the “Red Dot in Asia” that punctuates the Malay Peninsula, is one of the most deeply fascinating case studies for the business-minded traveler. On the surface, the cleanliness, safety, lack of traffic and crime and British colonial touch give it the feel of a Southeast Asian Canada. Go deeper and discover omnipresent business, a government inseparable from public and private. Delve deeper still, and see a melting pot of Southeast Asia, one wrought with diversity and mutual respect; no landed gentry or elites, no ill-fitting colonial structures; while overtly Western on its surface, Singapore, at its core, is Southeast Asian. And here, our adventure begins.

“Singapore, Inc.,” as the nickname goes, represents far more government involvement than I’ve ever seen in a country (and, yes, I’ve been to five Soviet republics and I voted for Barack Obama). A wholly private enterprise – while not forbidden – is practically non-existent. The prime minister, whose party has ruled parliament since 1959, is an uber-CEO. Political freedoms, naturally, are few; the press is effectively a ward of the state, and publish a dissenting editorial (that’s you, WSJ) and be sued or bankrupted. Big Brother watches constantly; Jaywalk, litter, spit and be fined; do worse and risk caning. The result is a remarkably clean, safe city that rakes in cash and plows them into public works. You can’t argue with results.

If the prime minister is the CEO, the nation of some 4.4 million are all shareholders. For a country with no natural resources, the returns have been staggering; within a few decades, Singapore’s GDP has grown from several hundred dollars to about $35,000 per head. The port, Singapore’s life blood, is the world’s third largest, taking in a fifth of the world’s shipments including all oil supplies to Japan and China (yikes). The government, no fool, sends its talent to study in major universities around the world (one, that I know of, in my Georgetown class), all in efforts to gain return for the shareholders. Ad maiorem patriae gloriam.

While business reigns, Singapore’s cultural soul is distinctly South Asian. Away from the land reclamation projects, the cranes which rival Dubai’s, and the huge waterfront highrises, a quick walk about the various neighborhoods reveals a vibe similar to Manila or Jakarta. Hindu, Buddhist, Tao, and Christian shrines dot the streets; Street food is present and sanitary, signs teem in Hindi, Chinese, Malay, English and other languages. "Sir, please!" reigns as you pass restaurants and vendors. Gargantuan, socialist-looking apartment buildings house scores upon scores of people. The mall culture – shop and escape the Equatorial heat – is present in all three. The smaller, and more mixed, population begets a vibrant street atmosphere without the pollution or overcrowding. Traffic is comparatively minimal. If Singapore is the responsible parent, Manila and Jakarta are octuplet-moms.

Four days in Raffles’ “Lion City” are a staggering look at business and politics, and how the two can and do indelibly overlap with little friction or ruckus. While single-party rule may assault Enlightenment devotees, it strikingly works in a nation-state with less land than Kansas City, more clout over its larger neighbors, and tremendous resources to pour back into their people. Indeed, a highlight of any visit to Singapore is interaction with Singaporeans; many of whom were educated, intelligent, Westernized, and quick to point out the government’s role (a 50 year plan: ?!?) in keeping Singapore on Asia’s forefront, an ever glowing red dot drawing increased returns for all.

They love Big Brother.